Using the Sony 10-18mm f4 lens on full frame

I’ve had the Sony Zeiss 16-35mm f/4 lens for almost a year now. I shoot it on my A7SII and I’m very pleased with it. Perhaps a bit weak around 35mm but on the other hand very sharp and contrasty from 16mm to 24mm. It’s a solid performer in my eyes and I use it a lot.
I love ultra wide angle lenses and the way you can play with perspectives and also for the challenge for compositions they provide. It’s not easy shooting UWAs but that’s part of the fun. Accordingly I sometimes felt that 16mm wasn’t wide enough.
Going wider that 16mm on Alpha full frame means you have to look at third party lenses, or so I thought. There is the new Laowa 12mm f/2.8 Zero-D and the Voigtlander 10mm f5.6. Both are manual lenses but comes with E-mount. Or you could put on an adapter and go for something like a Canon or a multitude of other options.

dsc04850But then I read an article on the net (I don’t remember where) that stated that the Sony 10-18mm f/4 zoom actually works from 12-16mm on a full frame sensor. Initially I thought this sounded too good to be true. And if you, as I, have a second APS-C body (in my case a NEX-7) you would also get, except the extreme 12mm perspective on the full frame, a respectable 15 to 27mm equivalent APS-C zoom.
And all this for a in Sony terms very reasonable price.

I had some luck and one of the shops in Stockholm actually had a second-hand lens for me to try. The first thing you need to do is to turn off the automatic switch to use a cropped sensor when using a APS-C lens. This is done in but turning the menu item APS-C/Super 35mm to off in the menus. From there on the lens behaves as a 10-18mm full frame zoom. And it works great.

So what can you expect?

Perhaps not perfect corner sharpness, even though it’s only the extreme corners that get really smudged. And light fall-off that never really goes away when stopping down.
On the other hand you get good central and mid frame sharpness, great contrast and colors, nice sunstars, very good flare handling, low weight and size and of course those wacky wide perspectives.

Positives (overall and on full frame)

  • Works from 12-16mm without hard vignetting on full frame
  • Very good central and mid frame sharpness
  • Nice color rendering
  • No magenta color cast in the borders on A7SII (this has been reported on older models of Alpha cameras)
  • Nice sunstars
  • Very good flare handling
  • Low weight and size
  • Auto focus (when you need it)
  • Fairly good build quality

Negatives (overall)

  • Fly-by-wire manual focus

Negatives (on full frame)

  • Sharpness (or lack thereof) in the corners
  • Heavy light fall-off in the corners (never goes away completely even when stopped down)
  • Lens hood can not be used without hard vignetting.
  • Complex distortion on full frame. Not easily corrected.

This is not a combination for everyone, I’m sure. For example, if you need sharp and well lit corners at the same time as extreme angles then you should stay away. Distortion is also complex and not easily corrected in post.
Personally I have come to love this little zoom. There is something very pleasing with the way this lens captures. On top of that the size and weight, and that it can double as a very respectable UWA zoom for my second APS-C body, secures that there’s always a place for it in my bag.

Sample images

All taken with the Sony 10-18mm on a A7SII. All images are post-processed but uncropped. Click for full samples.

14mm, f/10, 1/60 sec, ISO 800


14mm, f/20, 25 sec, ISO100


13mm, f/4.5, 6 sec, ISO3200


14mm, f/16, 1/15 sec, ISO800 


13mm, f/8, 1/1000 sec, ISO800


14mm, f/8, 1/80mm, ISO400


12mm ,f/11 ,1/400 sec , ISO2000


12mm, f/16, 1/800 sec, ISO1600




14 comments on “Using the Sony 10-18mm f4 lens on full frame

  1. Good to know, I like your images. You don’t get much more than APS-C image circle with the 12mm f2 Samyang (it does go square without the hood). I’m waiting for all these new brand lenses to come out for now but I’d be tempted by a 10-18 at a good price. I have a 16mm minolta fisheye if I want really wide, that looks good even on the A7RII.


    • Thanks!

      And if you have the A7RII you can actually choose to APS-C crop in-camera. Then you get very good performance across the frame and still a good MP count. On my A7SII I only get 5 MP if I crop which a bit too low.


  2. Hi,

    Please forgive me my english is not very good.
    I been doing wedding with eos5d 16-35 f4 and 50mm f1.4

    Switiching to mirrorless Sony A7iii, with Planar 50mm f.4 but the second lens is too expensive for me Vario Tessar 16-35 f4

    Instead of 16-35 shall I buy 10-18mm f4? Will it give me good 15-27m in APS mode and will it be big difference? I will be mostly taking people fotos in halls/churches/garden!


    • It will give you good quality in crop mode. As good as used on an APS-C camera. As long as you are OK with the lower pixel count.
      I’ve used mine in crop mode on my A7RIII and on a 5000 and a NEX7, all with good results.
      It’s small, light, sharp, has fair flare resistance. A nice lens.

      Liked by 1 person

      • So when a 10mm foto is cropped to 16mm in apsc will it not be more curved/stretched compare to real 16mm photo


      • 10mm in cropped mode will see the same angle as 15mm in full frame mode. But it will be only 18 megapixel instead of 42


    • I have got the same issue with you. I want a wide angle lens for my Sony a7iii. And would like to know how well it suits the camera. I am a hobbyist and I would like to know if it has in body lens correction to fix the distortion when shooting in jpeg on a full frame. Though I also have an Apsc body which also fits well, but just thinking about the new Laowa 1018 and this lens.


  3. Hi
    A couple of things don’t seem to have been mentioned.
    When using for FF landscapes some of the problem with the corners stems from field curvature thus placing the focus point off-centre, say half way to the edge will help.
    Secondly, the lens has OSS which means when coupled with an A series camera with IBIS and given the very short focal lengths, using good technique enables the use of spectacularly low shutter speeds when using e-FCS.


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